why i love eps/epoxy

the best waves usually break in less than safe environments. like pointbreaks, reefs, slabs, rivermouths, etc. and, some of the best of these, have sketchy paddle out spots.

this past weekend, i went to eddies, in the foto below, and surfed the point. waves were about 3' on the sets, and tide was filling in. i could either paddle from the beach, or walk along the rocks, and jump off. well, you know that jumping in is easier right? so, here i go jumpong from barnacle encrusted lava looking rock to rock to rock as much as possible, wading when needed. right as i get to the edge, a set comes, and i jump over the white water.

well not quite. leash tangles on a rock, and here i go, all my weight on the board, pinballing over all the rocks i just carefully navigated. and another set comes before i find my feet.

F**K! not only do i look like a kook to the people on the cliff watching, but this is my favourite board...

to say i was stoked would be wrong, i mean who is stoked to smash up their favourite board?

but, with only a broken fin, a chipped edge, and some surface scratches, i paddled out smiling and surfed for the rest of the day. come on!

nothing fancy with this lam either. just 2#eps, and 2x4oz bottom, 6oz+2x4oz deck.

god i love this stuff.