Wednesday, May 24, 2006

Good reading

"For me, the modern approach[internet and phone reports] to getting waves hinders the ambition to make surfing a part of you, to completely immerse yourself in a unique, ever-changing world. With the growing effort to control surfing, package it, and make it more convenient for the masses, you'll find fewer Tom Blankes, George Greenoughs, fewer Bob Simmos, and fewer Jim Banksout there because surfing will no longer require a unique, creative lifestyle. Besides, from what I've seen, internet forecasting is often inflated. I'll be out on some crappy day and hear a guy whining, "But Collins said..." It's obvious why reperts tend to overhype swells: More hits on their website justify the selling of ad space. By logging on, you've become part of their picture instead of creating your own. You might as well buy your board from Costco too"
- Jeff Johnson, "Lost in the Fun Park," The Surfer's Journal Volume 14, number 2.

Don't let your surfing become mundane, homogeneous, and like so an'd so. Buy your boards locally, from someone who actually knows what the waves are like where you live, and in turn supports your community.

Part of surfing's rich heritage is the local shaper/surfer/builder. It would be a shame to see that disappear, and everyone riding the same white, 3 fin surfboard...


Heitor02 said...

i really don't agree with you. the only bad effect internet has on surfing is having more guys surfing on one break, since they can watch the video and check for themselves whether or not the surf is good. Other than that the internet gives us loads of information. Whith this information( chats, blogs, etc.), people can find out about new types of surfing (twins, eggs, bonzers) and stay off the 3 fin thrusters. The internet has given us the possibility of choice.

Realeza said...


i am not disputing the relevance of the internet - i wouldn't be posting on this blog if that were the case - the point is that if you use it to check your local breaks, you miss out on a sort of rite of passage by figuring it out on your own. learning the wind/swell/tide information makes it easy to figure out where to go, without needing to rely on others.

plus, how many times did you stay home because the webcam made it look worse than it really was, or because they said it wasn't that good? or vice versa?

Gerry Lopez once said that the only way you progress as a surfer is going all the time, not just when its good.

I agree with you about the internet providing the basis for finding out more about designs, and will hopefully expand our knowledge of so called 'alterative' surf craft.

thanks for the comment, and feedback. keep it coming!


reverb said...

...yeah, I know...but I build white thrusters that are totally differents one from te other...(ex.: I build every set of fins for each board specifications..)

...G. Lopez said that surfin Pipeline in mushy days converts him in a master when its clean...

Realeza said...

hey reverb,

yes, i have seen your boards, and they are beautiful, and i am sure they are extremely functional.

in my experience, thrusters are a very versatile design, especially when properly set up.

however, if you never try the other set ups, or experiment, you get stuck on one design - speaking as a surfer, but possibly as a shaper too.

i grew up surfing in the 80's, almost entirely on thrusters. but, it wasn't until i tried a few other designs that my surfing improved. when i jumped on a single fin, i learned flow, when i tried a twin(zer) i learned to use my rails. now, when i use a thruster, i know how to combine all that, as well as taking modern moves to retro designs.

there is no one perfect design in my mind, just better ones for certain conditions, and certain style...

still interested in that tunnel side fin..that's wicked.

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